Last year for my birthday my brother gave me a copy of Famous New Orleans Drinks & How to Mix ‘Em by Stanley Clisby Arthur. The history of cocktails is inextricably linked to New Orleans, and by most accounts, the very origin of the word “cocktail” comes from the city where A.A. Peychaud first started serving drinks in a double-ended egg-cup called a coquetier. Cocktails like the Sazerac, the Ramos Gin Fizz and the Vieux Carré (to name a few) were all invented in NOLA.
The book was first published in 1937, and this tiny time-machine is packed with recipes, their histories, lots of random anecdotes, and few silly poems about the merits of drinking. There are also several references to Prohibition as “the Great Mistake.”
Looking for inspiration, I stumbled upon Arthur’s recipe for a Jitters Cocktail. Recounting it will not do it justice, so here is a photo of the page:
I couldn’t help but laugh at the description of Anis del Mono since it is made just outside of Barcelona and is simply a brand name of a type of anis, much like Ojen. (Side note: Ojen was originally made in a Southern Spain town by the same name. They shut down production in the 1990s, which apparently made people in New Orleans freak out. The Sazerac Company resurrected the liquor, and it’s now made in Kentucky. More on that here).
Not sure what monkeyshines means? Me neither. I had to look it up, apparently it is “mischievous or playful activity : prank —usually used in plural.”
This cocktail was a pleasant surprise because we’re not generally fans of anis. Its typical anise/licorice flavor is less intense because of the gin and the vermouth, yet its herbal notes complement the botanicals in the gin. Nothing fancy, but super easy and quick to make. Like the Negroni and the Boulevardier, it is a three-ingredient cocktail with equal parts of everything.
Cheers and enjoy, monkeys!
If you don’t know David Lebovitz, now is the time to check him out. He’s a Chez Panisse alumni and his accolades are numerous and impressive (for example: Named Top Five Pastry Chefs in the Bay Area by the San Francisco Chronicle).
He’s written a number of cookbooks, and though his credentials are intimidating, his recipes and style of cooking are not. In his words:
“I use basic, honest ingredients; fresh fruit, good quality chocolate, real vanilla, and pure butter. I don’t believe that baking (or cooking) should be out of reach to people and strive to share recipes that are do-able for a majority of cooks and home bakers.”
In 2006 he packed up and moved to Paris, where he’s been doing his thing and writing yet another cookbook called My Paris Kitchen. As fellow Americans abroad, his observations on life and food are not only insightful, but often witty and hilarious.
Anyway, his blog is also really impressive, and though being a pastry chef, he clearly loves cocktails too, and I was pumped to find this recipe for a Chin Up.
We’re building a distillery here in Barcelona and have been playing with barrel aging our gins, so when I read this recipe, I simply had to try it 🙂
Friday Happy Hour: Chin Up Cocktail via David Lebovitz
- 2 slices of cucumber
- Tiny pinch of kosher or sea salt
- 60 ml (2 oz) Corpen Barrel Aged gin
- 15 ml (1/2 oz) Cynar
- 15 ml (1/2 oz) dry white vermouth (we used Murcarols)
- Muddle one slice of cucumber with the salt in a mixing glass.
- Add the gin, Cynar and vermouth, and fill the mixing glass full of ice. Stir until cold.
- Strain into a chilled stemmed cocktail glass and float a VERY thin slice of cucumber slice on top (too thick and it will sink).
- Drink and enjoy!
We’ve gone off the deep end with shrubs. I’ve talked about this once already, and now we’ve got about six in the refrigerator, with many more on the way. They really are lovely with just ice and sparkling water, but it’s Friday, and we’d like a little something that’s appropriate for happy hour.
So here we present you with a Shrub Bramble, which lends itself to being called a “Shramble” if you like silly names. This recipe replaces the lemon juice that is normally in a Bramble with a lemon shrub. The shrub we used is mostly lemon with bit of lime and uses white wine vinegar, which is subtle and allows the citrus to shine though. Like any shrub in a cocktail, this lemon adds a depth and complexity to one of the main flavors.
The Bramble has a whole history that goes along with it, that I won’t do justice if I attempt to recount. If you want more info, check out the explanation from the guys at Gin Foundry and Dillford’s Guide. We started with the Dillford’s recipe and adjusted to our taste.
With that said, drink up!
Friday Happy Hour: Shrub Bramble- I guess that makes it a “Schramble?”
- - 60ml (2 oz) Corpen Gin
- - 20-30ml (1 oz) Lemon Shrub (use your judgment based on how strong/bitter your shrub is)
- - 15ml (1/2 oz) Simple Syrup
- - 15ml (1/2 oz) Crème de Mûre or Crème de Cassis
- Add gin, lemon shrub and simple syrup to a shaker full of ice.
- Shake until cold
- Fill old fashioned glass with crushed ice
- Pour contents of shaker over ice
- Retop with crushed ice and drizzle with crème de mûre or crème de cassis
- Garnish with a lemon wedge, blackberry and/or mint sprig.
- Every shrub is a little different, feel free to tone up and the shrub and tone down the simple syrup for more bitterness.
It’s official. I’m in love with shrubs.
What is a shrub, you ask? Well, there are certainly others who can explain it better than I can, but the basics are this: fruit + sugar + vinegar. Sounds strange, yes, but the roots of this drink go all the way back to the Romans who used it as a way to preserve fresh fruit. It’s a really interesting combination of sweet and sour, and even if you are skeptical, worth a try.
Anyway, a friend made some pomegranate shrub and gave us a small bottle when we were in New Orleans in December. We hadn’t really done much with it until recently when the weather started getting nice.
Shrubs can be used to make both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, which makes them pretty versatile in application, and there are TONS of recipes online about how to make them (our friend referenced this one). Most of these recipes say they are “fantastic additions to cocktails” but don’t really go into the details about what cocktails, what proportions or anything really.
So we started with the most basic recipe. The pomegranate shrub we have is delicious when added to sparkling water, so why hide that amazing flavor with something fancy? This a a simple vodka soda with shrub added. Vodka is the definition of neutral, so try ANY flavor shrub with this recipe.
This recipe is a bit of a happy accident. Last year I was experimenting with cherries to make our own garnishes for cocktails. Someone had left some brandy at our place after a party, and I thought I’d play with this forgotten bottle.
The process was simple: Buy some fresh cherries (the sweet kind, not the bitter/sour kind), remove the stems and the pits, put them in a jar, and fill the jar with brandy so the cherries are completely submerged.
Leave the jar in the refrigerator for some period of time (days, weeks, months), and that’s it. Super easy.
The problem was when I tried the cherries after a few weeks. WAY too strong with brandy and not enjoyable as a garnish for anything. The alcohol in the brandy had also pulled the color out, so they resembled green olives more than cherries. Again, not good for a garnish.
Honestly, then I forgot about them. They lived in the back of the refrigerator for months. It was only recently that I realized what I did have was a nice cherry-infused brandy, which was much more interesting than the cherries themselves.
So, what to make with cherry-infused brandy? How about a Brandy Manhattan? It is sometimes also called a Metropolitan, which causes some confusion. There is another version of a Metropolitan cocktail out there, that is a cousin of the Cosmopolitan and includes vodka, lime juice and cranberry juice. I am not talking about this drink.
As the name would imply, this lovely drink uses the same ratios of a regular Manhattan, but with brandy in the place of Rye.
Friday Happy Hour: Cherry-Infused Brandy Manhattan
- 60 ml (2 oz) Cherry-infused brandy
- 30 ml (1 oz) Sweet vermouth
- 3-4 dashes Angostura bitters (or other savory bitters)
- Garnish with a Maraschino cherry (the real kind, like Luxardo or Amarena)
- Chill glass
- Mix all ingredients in a mixing glass full of ice for 20-30 seconds
- Pour into chilled glass, add garnish.
If this is too much brandy for you, you can tone it back to 45 ml (1.5 oz).